Hot Cross Buns, Hot Cross Buns, One ha’penny, Two ha’penny, Hot Cross Buns!
If you have no daughters, Give them to your sons,
One ha’penny, Two ha’penny, Hot Cross Buns.
From the English nursery rhyme “Hot Cross Buns” published in the London Chronicle for 2–4 June 1767
It’s almost Easter so that means it’s time to make Hot Cross Buns. These sweet and sticky buns are filled with orange zest, currants, and warm spices that make them a perfect addition to any Easter meal. But these buns aren’t just a fun treat. They actually have a long history, both pagan and Christian.
Originally, Hot Cross Buns were made to celebrate Eostre. Eostre was a Germanic goddess of fertility (Easter was named after her) who was supposed to be a young and voluptuous blonde woman. She was often associated with song birds, bunnies, and other baby animals. She was also depicted holding early spring flowers like violets and snow drops. Because of her association with fertility, she was a goddess of Spring so, across pagan Europe, there were many Spring festivals in her honor. These buns were originally thought to be the first fresh breads of the season, and the four quarters on top of the buns (made by a cross) represented the phases of the moon. The cross also represented rebirth, such as the earth’s movement from Winter into Spring.
Eventually, as the Celtic world became Christian (especially in Ireland and Britain) Hot Cross Buns were made every Good Friday to symbolize the day that Jesus was crucified. The buns are decorated with a flour paste cross to remind the guests of the cross on which Christ died. The spices in the dough represent the spices used to embalm Christ after he was taken down off the cross, and the currants (or sultanas or raisins) represent Christ’s body in the tomb.
There are other stories and legends around these buns as well. Some stories say that because you were not allowed to eat any dairy products during Lent, the recipe for these dairy-free buns came from St. Albans in England, in 1361, when a man named Brother Thomas Radcliffe found an old Greek recipe for buns with crosses on top (that recipe dated from around the 6th century AD). Brother Thomas reworked the recipe and called it an “Alban Bun” and distributed it to the poor on Good Friday.
Then, for some unknown reason, Queen Elizabeth I and King James I declared that making Hot Cross Buns for any reason other than Good Friday, Christmas, or burials, was illegal. So, as these things often go, domestic kitchens became a haven for black market Hot Cross Bun dealers. (I am not kidding!) Eventually, when the government realized they couldn’t stop this underground Hot Cross Bun market, they made them legal again. Not long after that, London bun sellers could be heard crying in the streets, “Good Friday comes this month, the old woman runs. With one or two a penny hot cross buns.”
So, regardless of whether or not you celebrate Easter, I hope you enjoy this recipe. I will be honest–yeast breads take time and patience. But these sweet and sticky buns are so delicious, you won’t mind the work at all. I hope you all have a wonderful Spring weekend, and don’t forget that Irish butter works best with Hot Cross Buns.
Hot Cross Buns
Ingredients
BUNS
- 3 teaspoons rapid rise yeast
- 1/2 cup superfine sugar
- 1 1/2 cups whole milk warmed
- 4 1/4 cups bread flour
- 2 teaspoons cinnamon powder
- 2 teaspoons Allspice
- 1/2 teaspoons salt
- 1 1/2 cups raisins or sultanas
- 2 oranges zest only
- 3 1/2 Tablespoons unsalted butter melted and cooled
- 1 egg at room temperature
EXTRA FLOUR FOR DOUGH
- 1/4 cup bread flour
CROSSES
- 1/2 cup flour any white flour
- 5 Tablespoons water
GLAZE:
- 1 Tablespoons apricot jam
- 2 teaspoons water
Instructions
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In a large bowl, stir together the flour, yeast, sugar, allspice, cinnamon, and salt.
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In a stand mixer with the dough hook, add the flour mixture and then beat in the butter, milk, egg, raisins (sultanas), and orange zest. Mix for 5 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic.
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Once the ingredients are well blended, add extra flour if needed to make the dough pull away from the sides of the bowl. dough should be smooth and doesn't break when stretched.
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Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow to rise until it doubles in size, about 1 – 1 1/2 hours.
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Line a 9×13" baking sheet with parchment paper, allowing the paper to overhang the ends by at least 1".
Remove the plastic wrap over the dough and punch the dough down.
Lightly dust the counter with flour and gently knead the dough, shaping it into a log. Cut the log into 12 equal pieces.
Take each pice and roll it into a ball. Stretch it out again and form into another ball–this will smooth the dough so you get a nice bun surface. Place the ball, smoothest side up, on the baking tray. Repeat until they are all made and line them on the sheet 3 across and 4 down.
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Lightly spray another length of plastic wrap with oil and cover the tray of buns. Leave in a warm place for another 45 minutes until the dough rises about 75%. Fifteen minutes before the rising ends, preheat the oven to 350℉.
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To make crosses, stir together in a small bowl the flour and water until it forms a sticky paste. Spoon the paste int a piping bag with a 3 mm tip. Remove the cling wrap and pipe the crosses onto the buns.
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Bake for 22 minutes or until the buns are a deep golden brown. While the buns are baking, put the jam and water into a microwavable bowl and microwave for 30 seconds. Stir to mix well and set aside.
Remove the buns from the oven. Using the longer paper overhangs, lift the buns on the paper and place them on a baking rack. Brush the hot rolls with the jam wash. Cool before serving.
