This is an edited repost from the archives.
When I was a kid, one of my favorite activities around this time of year was picking blackberries. I loved everything we made with them from jams and crumbles, to syrups that covered our pancakes on Christmas morning. But looking back now, I realize it was more than just eating all the blackberry-laden treats. My love for this activity was tied directly to my love for this season, especially the month of September. And the season’s appeal probably stems from not just the weather change, which in the mountains of New Jersey was a huge relief since we didn’t have air conditioning. Summertime was almost unbearable with its humidity and bugs. So when the cooler air showed up, along with shorter days, living in an old house became much more bearable.
But back to the blackberries… I think my love for this season came directly from all of the stories that go along with it. From the tales of St. Luke’s Little Summer straight through to All Saints Day, this time of year carries with it tons of folklore and fairytales. Many of my favorite books are also set in this season or, at least, evoke the feelings that come from crisp days, colored leaves, and longer nights. One of my favorite September stories comes from the legend of St. Michael and the day known as Michaelmas.
The legend says that on (or around) September 29, St. Michael–Heaven’s greatest angel–defeated the angel Lucifer. At the end of a great battle, St. Michael banished Lucifer and tossed him out of Heaven. When Lucifer fell, he landed, bottom first, onto a thorny blackberry bush. In anger, he spat and stomped on the bush, cursing its fruit. (He may have also done some other nasty things to the poor bush, but I hope not!) Since blackberries naturally sour in late September due to the changing weather, I’m sure it’s not a coincidence that today is also National Poisoned Blackberry Day. As the old Irish proverb says, “On Michaelmas Day the devil puts his foot on blackberries”.
There’s also a wonderful poem called Blackberry Picking, about the charm of children picking blackberries by Seamus Heaney. It’s still under copyright so I won’t post any of the lines here, but it’s worth a read. The poem evokes the memories of sticky hands covered in blackberry juice, the anticipation of pies and tarts for teatime, and the disappointment they feel when they realize the devil has beaten them to their “byre” and poisoned all the berries. Michaelmas, traditionally, was also the day of the year that leases would end and begin, rents were due, and servants were hired or fired. Since all of the harvests were usually in by this date, it was also the time that debts were paid off and land was bought or sold. In the English-speaking world, this was also the time that magistrates were elected and law schools and universities would begin their terms. Our own rule of having elections in early November is tied to these old traditions.
Since the Fall Equinox marks the time on the calendar that the nights get darker and longer and the days turn colder and shorter, the celebration of Michaelmas is associated with the idea that we need protection during the darker months. Many used to believe that negative forces grew stronger in the darkness so starting on September 29th, after the harvest was in, families built stronger defenses to protect themselves. These protections included physical protection (fences, etc.) and making sure they had enough food put away for the winter.
But St. Michael’s protection also extended to financial issues. In Britain, a fattened goose was eaten to protect families against financial losses during the winter. There used to be an old English saying that goes like this: “Eat a goose on Michaelmas Day, want not for money all the year. ” This was such a popular tradition that some people called Michaelmas “Goose Day”. In some parts of Britain, people still attend “Goose Fairs” instead of harvest festivals. Regardless of how they celebrated, Michaelmas used to be one of the most important days on the calendar because it ensured the health and wealth of the family into the new year.
Yet, beyond the stories, blackberries are still delicious and fun to eat by the handful or in baked desserts. Below is one of my new favorites, Blackberry Tarts. It’s a perfect dessert or snack for this time of year while you’re sitting by a fire reading your favorite fall-themed books!
Blackberry Tarts
This is an adapted recipe from an old Martha Stewart magazine recipe. I like to use more blackberries than the original recipe calls for and I don't cut the berries in half. They're too beautiful in their full form.
Ingredients
Crust:
- 1 1/2 cups white flour
- 1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
- 3 Tablespoons sugar
- 16 Tablespoons (2 sticks) unsalted butter chilled and cut into cubes
- 2 egg yolks lightly beaten
- 4 Tablespoons ice water
Vanilla Bean Cream:
- 6 ounces white chocolate
- 8 ounce container mascarpone cheese
- 1 vanilla bean
- 1 cup heavy whipping cream
Garnish
- 2 pints blackberries washed and dried
- 2 Tablespoons confectioner's sugar
Instructions
Tart Crust
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In a food processor, combine the flour and sugar with a few quick pulses. Add in the butter cubes and pulse until the dough resembles small peas. This will take about 10-12 seconds. Then keep the food processor on while you add the egg yolks and the ice water. Keep blending until the dough forms a ball.
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Take out the dough and divide it into 2 balls and flatten them into discs. Wrap each disc with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for one hour or more.
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Working with one disc at at time, roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface. Roll until the dough is 1/8" thick and then cut out circles a bit larger than the tart tins you're using. Press the dough rounds into the tart tins. Then chill the dough in the tart tins for another hour.
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Preheat the oven to 375 ℉.
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Take the tarts out of the fridge and place them on a larger baking sheet. Bake for 17-20 minutes. Rotate the pan halfway through the cooking time. Then take them out of the oven and cool for 10 minutes. Gently take the crusts out of the pans and put them on wire racks to cool.
Vanilla Cream
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Make a double boiler by placing a small glass box over a pan of simmering water. Place the chocolate in the bowl and stir until it is melted. Remove the bowl from the heat and allow it to cool for 10 minutes.
While you're waiting, cut the vanilla bean in half with a sharp knife and scrape the seeds out of each half. In another bowl, whisk together the seeds with the mascarpone cheese. Then slowly whisk the melted chocolate into the cheese. Set aside.
With a stand mixer, beat the whipping cream into soft peaks and then gently fold the whipped cream into the mascarpone/vanilla batter.
Assembling the Tarts
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Divide the vanilla cream evenly between all the tarts and spoon the cream into each tart shell. Top with the blackberries and sprinkle with confectioner's sugar. Serve immediately.
